HISTORY: JELENÍ BOUDY

A mountain enclave with a history shaped by generations.

Just about three kilometers as the crow flies from Špindlerův Mlýn, on the southern slopes below Malý Šišák, lies a unique place with a rich history—Jelení boudy.

This mountain enclave, divided by a narrow strip of forest along the Černý Stream, is one of the oldest settled areas of its kind in the Krkonoše Mountains and still retains the authentic atmosphere of the mountains.

The origins of Jelení boudy date back to the early 18th century, when the Krkonoše Mountains became an important source of timber for the developing iron industry. It was precisely the logging for the ironworks in Vrchlabí and other manorial estates that gave rise to the first mountain settlements.

Among the first settlers was the Adolf family, who came to the Krkonoše Mountains from the Austrian Alps. Their name gradually spread to other mountain areas and became one of the most common in the region. These lumberjacks and farmers laid the foundations for life in harsh conditions, where it was necessary to rely primarily on one’s own strength.

The original name of Leierova bouda (Leierbauden) still raises questions today. One of the most frequently mentioned theories has an almost fairy-tale-like touch—allegedly, a settler lived here who owned a barrel organ (Leierkasten) and entertained passing travelers on the old trade route leading to the Czech-Silesian border by playing it.

The current name, “Jelení boudy,” refers to the tradition of observing deer during the autumn rut. This has always been a powerful experience for visitors and has become a symbol of this place.

At the beginning of the 19th century, there were approximately seven buildings at Jelení boudy; by 1910, their number had grown to ten, and the enclave had around seventy inhabitants. Gradually, the number stabilized at roughly thirteen buildings.

Life here was not easy. The inhabitants made their living primarily by working in the forest and raising livestock. Although they were at a high altitude, thanks to the southern exposure of the slopes, they were able to grow crops such as oats, potatoes, beets, and cabbage. Every bit of land was carefully utilized.

Alongside honest labor, however, less official means of livelihood also emerged in the mountains—some residents supplemented their income by smuggling goods across the nearby border. Harsh conditions and limited livelihood opportunities also led some families to gradually leave for a better life in industrial areas.

One of the oldest buildings was the farmhouse at No. 102, which even served as a schoolroom. In 1890, however, it was destroyed by a fire caused by a lightning strike. It was subsequently rebuilt, this time out of stone.

Another significant building in the enclave was the gamekeeper’s lodge, which Count Morzin had built here in 1850 for the Sedmidolí hunting district. It too later fell victim to a fire, but was restored and remains in use to this day.

Gradually, more structures were added—an inn, residential houses, and farm buildings. The enclave thus took on the form of a small, self-sufficient mountain community.

With growing interest in the Krkonoše Mountains, Jelení boudy began to attract the first tourists. As early as 1876, an inn was established here, which became an important base for visitors.

Its history was full of twists and turns—owners came and went, and the quality of service fluctuated. A significant turning point came with the Hollmann family, who managed to restore the hotel’s reputation and adapt it to the growing demands of tourists. The hotel was modernized, offering central heating and dozens of beds.

In 1917, however, lightning struck the building, and the ensuing fire nearly destroyed it. Nevertheless, it was at least temporarily restored and remained a landmark of the entire area.

A fundamental transformation came in 1921, when the road from Špindlerův Mlýn to Špindlerova Bouda was completed. Thanks to this, the area became much more accessible, and tourism began to grow rapidly. A bus line even began running here, with a stop near the lodge.

Life at Jelení boudy also had an educational aspect. At first, children attended school at Špindlerova bouda; later, a school branch was established directly within the enclave. A teacher would come here regularly to teach children from the surrounding huts.

During the turbulent periods of the 20th century, the site also became a strategic point—both before and after World War II, a unit of the Czechoslovak Army was stationed here to secure the borders.

After World War II, the huts were renamed and ownership changed. Tourism was gradually restored, and the area began to serve primarily as a recreational destination. A prominent figure of the postwar period was Josef Klapka, who successfully combined the hotel business with agricultural management.

In the second half of the 20th century, the quality of services varied depending on the operators at the time, yet Jelení boudy retained its distinctive character.

Today, Jelení boudy is not only a peaceful destination for tourists but, above all, a living reminder of the mountain life that has existed here for centuries. Every meadow, every building, and every path tells a story of people who managed not only to survive in harsh conditions but also to create a functioning and distinctive community.

Source: History of the Krkonoše Mountain Huts